Nach Hongkong stand nun Peking als nächstes Ziel an. Transportmittel war dieses Mal nicht das Flugzeug sondern der Bullettrain, ein Hochgeschwindigkeitszug, der uns innerhalb von 24 Stunden nach Peking schießen sollte. Um zumindest etwas komfortabel zu reisen, entschieden wir uns für die Kategorie „Softsleeper“, einem Schlafabteil mit zwei Doppelstockbetten. Im Zug angekommen, fanden wir uns in unserem Abteil alleine wieder, läuft! Mit großer Freude warfen wir uns in unsere Softsleeperbetten und waren froh, keine bleibenden Schäden davon getragen zu haben. Sie waren knüppelhart… Und so erblickten wir am nächsten Morgen schwer gerädert das Tageslicht, genossen viele Stunden des Nichtstuns und freuten uns auf Peking.
In Peking angekommen ging es zunächst mit einem etwas fragwürdigen Taxifahrer, der durch einen sperrangelweit geöffneten Hosenstall sowie einer üblen Knoblauchfahne auf sich aufmerksam machte, an unsere Unterkunft. Da unsere SIM Karten in China nicht mehr funktionierten, was sie eigentlich hätten tun sollen, ging es zunächst in einen China Unicom Laden. Nachdem die ersten SIM Karten auch hier nicht funktionierten, wechselte sich der Verkäufer in einen Rausch. Letztendlich funktionierte zumindest Jannas Karte für genau einen Tag und ich bin nun mit der privaten Karte des Verkäufers unterwegs und erfreue mich an regelmäßigen Anrufen unbekannter Chinesen. Wir hatten unseren Spaß.
Da für Russland, das nächste Ziel unserer Weltreise, auch ein Visum erforderlich ist, ging es abends an die Vorbereitung. Wir holten Einladungen ein, besorgten Nachweise und bereiteten akribisch alles, wie vom Konsulat aufgelistet, bis in die tiefe Nacht vor. Und so ging es siegessicher zum Visa Application Center. Bedient von einer sichtlich unmotivierten Sachbearbeiterin wurden zunächst unsere Unterlagen gesichtet. Was fehlte war zunächst das Einreiseticket nach Russland. Nach einer längeren Diskussion, das dies vom Konsulat explizit nicht gefordert wird, ergaben wir uns und wollten uns auf den Weg zum Bahnhof machen um Zugtickets zu kaufen. Aber nicht mit unserer Sachbearbeiterin, denn sie wollte auch noch unser chinesisches Visum sehen. Wir verstanden zwar nicht, was dies mit der Einreise von deutschen Staatsbürgern nach Russland zu tun hat, aber sollte sie es ruhig haben. Dies war dann leider auch unser Genickbruch. Emotionslos wurde uns mitgeteilt dass unser chinesisches Visum mindestens 90 Tage Gültigkeit haben muss, um das Visum für Russland zu bekommen- für Touristen jedoch unmöglich. Den Sinn dieser Forderung konnte natürlich niemand erklären, und so zogen wir völlig frustriert von dannen. In meiner letzten Hoffnung kontaktierte ich eine deutsche Visaagentur. Rückmeldung: Schicken Sie die Pässe nach Deutschland, wir besorgen in 6 Tagen das Visum und schicken die Pässe zurück nach China. Leider für eine Unsumme an Geld. Und damit war der letzte Glaube an Logik und Politik verloren. Somit beerdigten wir fürs erste unsere Idee, Russland während der Weltreise zu durchqueren, und werden unsere Reise in Alaska fortführen. Es gibt schlechtere Ziele, oder? 😉
Bereits wild planend und mit gebesserter Laune ging es an den nahegelegenen Houhai Lake. Und so fanden wir uns in einem Meer blinkender Katzenohrhaarreife und bunt leuchtender Luftballons wieder. Chinesen mögen offensichtlich neben übergroßen Plüschtieren auch leuchtende Accessoires. Und so wurde der Spaziergang an einem sehr schönen See zu einem unterhaltsamen Spektakel.
Pekings beeindruckende Historie wollten wir uns natürlich nicht entgehen lassen und machten uns am nächsten Tag auf den Weg in die verbotene Stadt. Bereits die Metrofahrt dorthin ließ erahnen, dass wir nicht alleine sein werden. Und so standen wir im sintflutartigen Regen in einem Meer aus Regenschirmen und quetschten uns neben tausenden chinesischen Touristen in Richtung Eingang. Uns bot sich ein in mehrerlei Hinsicht beeindruckendes Bild. Die verbotene Stadt ist in der Tat eine eigene Stadt, in der bis 1911 die chinesischen Kaiser der Ming und Quin Dynastien lebten. Da der Zutritt dem einfachen Volk stets verwehrt blieb, entstand der Name “verbotene Stadt”. Die im traditionell chinesischen Stil erbauten Häuser und Hallen sind prunkvoll eingerichtet und vermitteln ein gutes Bild davon, wie die Kaiser damals lebten.
Zusätzlich bekamen wir direkt ein interkulturelles Training verpasst. Zivilisiertes nebeneinander Herlaufen ist in China nicht möglich. Es wird gedrängelt, gestoßen und der Regenschirm als Waffe eingesetzt. Was uns massiv störte (bedingt durch unsere Körpergröße waren unsere Augen und meine Ohren die Zielscheibe wüster Regenschirmattacken), wurde von den uns umgebenden Chinesen stoisch ertragen. Wir mussten auch feststellen, dass es offensichtlich keine Daseinsberechtigung an Touristenattraktionen gibt, wenn kein Foto geschossen, sondern nur das Gesehene aufgenommen wird. Anders, spannend und nicht immer verständlich.
Abgekämpft sollte es danach mit einer entspannten Busfahrt in Richtung Unterkunft gehen. Die Entspannung verflüchtigte sich jedoch schlagartig, als der Bus ankam. Aus der vorher vorbildlich aufgereihten Warteschlange entwickelte sich ein wilder Mob. Die wartende Menge rannte auf die Bustür zu und drängte schubsend und teilweise um sich schlagend in den Bus hinein. Es war der völlige Wahnsinn, der mit Sicherheit auch den andauernden Schulferien geschuldet ist.
Unseren Abschluss in Peking bildete ein Ausflug zu einem Abschnitt der großen Mauer, der Xiangshuihu Great Wall. Janna hatte dieses Vergnügen bereits in der Vergangenheit und organisierte ihren damaligen Führer, Storm. Es war ein Traum! Mit einem Auto (!) abgeholt, ging es mit Storm und seiner Freundin alleine (!) in Richtung große Mauer. Zunächst stoppten wir bei Storms Tante, tranken Tee und aßen unterwegs gekauftes Obst, bis es zunächst zu einem kleinen Tempel ging. Uns wurden die Beziehungen der lokalen Bewohner zum Dragon God erläutert und anschließend ging es zur Mauer. Dachten wir… Durch den Regen am Vortag war der öffentliche Bereich der großen Mauer für Besucher gesperrt. Glücklicherweise kennt Storm diese Region wie seine Westentasche und führte uns zur alten, nicht für Touristen zugänglichen Mauer. Bewacht von Obstbauern war einige Diskussion erforderlich, bis wir schlussendlich passieren konnten. Es hat uns wirklich beeindruckt wie vehement sie ihre Mauer beschützen.
Das Bild, was sich uns bot,war atemberaubend. Die 2000 Jahre alte Mauer zog sich durch Täler und über Bergspitzen hinweg. Vereinzelt ragten Wachtürme aus ihr empor. Noch beeindruckender war die Unberührtheit der Mauer. Mit Bäumen bewachsen und teilweise verfallen fügt sie sich majestätisch in die wunderschöne Berglandschaft ein. Und so wanderten wir auf der Mauer zu einem Wachturm hinauf und genossen die Einsamkeit und den atemberaubenden Ausblick. Auf dem Rückweg kehrten wir nochmals bei Storms Tante ein und wurden mit grandioser lokaler Küche bekocht.
Heimwärts ging es mit dem Zug und das Bild, was sich uns darstellte, regte stark zum nachdenken an. Wenige Kilometer entfernt von nahezu unberührter Natur ragten hunderte Plattenbauten gen Himmel. Teilweise bewohnt, teilweise im Rohbau, zeigten sie uns die traurige Wahrheit über Chinas Vorstädte. Emotionslose graue Gebäude, überall Müll sowie mit Netzen bedeckter Schutt von abgerissenen Gebäuden versinnbildlichen eine kaum noch handzuhabende Bevölkerungsgrösse.
Unser weiterer Weg führt uns über mehrere Stationen nun gen Westen mit dem großen Ziel Tibet. Bleibt gespannt, der nächste Bericht folgt bald!








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